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Qype: Lammars in Manchester

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My friend introduced me to Lammars in 2009, and since then I’ve been there many times. It is no wonder the place is trendy: the interior dazzles you with its uncanny fusion of different styles and pieces of decor. You will be sitting there, overlooking the bar with unusual if not kitschy candelabra, and from the ceiling the figures from reproductions by the Italian Masters will be looking down upon you. As we would all agree, there is something about sipping on your cocktail or chatting over a pint, while Jesus is watching you – quite literally so.

The whole space is divided into small areas, every one of them in a different style. My favourite comes next after the one that faces the bar. It has rounded seats, mirrors, and a white piano that always brings Elton John to my mind.

They play live music at Lammars and have comedy nights, so the interior ends up being a great backdrop for either form of entertainment. I’ve only ever been there for a friendly drink, but I was never disappointed. Even on a quite night it is a great place to be at, but when it’s busy and buzzing I like it even more. This is when its syncretic design is enlivened by the merry crowd, and Lammars emerges at its most opulent.

 

Qype: Dimitris Tapas Bar Taverna in Manchester

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I‘ve known Dimitris for a good few years, but never actually went there before tonight. The restaurant is located very close to the Instituto Cervantes, and is within easy reach from either Castlefield, Salford, or city centre.

You are greeted by friendly and excited staff who dutifully take you to your table. This is a trendy place, and they have an outdoor seating area, so on a summer evening you have every chance to relive the Mediterranean dining experience, complete with earthenware dishes, wooden furniture, and traditional music. The interior is dim but stylish, with huge windows overlooking Deansgate and LalQuila bar across the road. It all seeks to fuse a traditional Greek taverna with a touch of urban Mancunian modernity.

There are a lot of Greek dishes on the menu, as well as some pastas. They have an extensive wine list, but my friend and I opted in for a jug of sangria. Their stuffed wine leaves and Octopodi come highly recommended, as well as mouth watering Hot Camembert and chillli beef. And Greek yogurt and honey will serve as the most beautiful crown on this feast of succulence. But beware: it is very rich and filling and is served in a large glass dish. Don’t try it after a full meal… unless you have a good rest between the courses!

 

Qype: walrus in Manchester

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If you want a night out in Manchester’s Northern Quarter, you really don’t need to walk much farther than the crossroad of High St and Thomas St. There are so many bars and clubs that you can safely party the whole night long, popping in and out of different places within a very small urban ground.

Walrus oozes freshness and space, and their lower ground dance pool is always cool, no matter how many people there are. Upstairs they served a very tasty Chinese lunch, complete with stylish black dishes. It is hardly a place for a business meeting (unless your partners have a good sense of humour), but for a friendly crowd Walrus is a great choice for lunch.

 

Qype: Palace Theatre in Manchester

ManchesterArts & EntertainmentTheatres

Unlike in my home country, I’m not a regular theatre-goer in Britain, for one reason or another. The productions I saw at the Palace Theatre were Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker (by the Chisinau Ballet) and Rufus Wainwright’s opera flick, Prima Donna. The audience’s acoustic is generally good, and the seats are rather comfortable. What is memorable, of course, is the interior building design and decor. It is a what can be called traditional Victorian theatre, so feel free to imagine ladies and gentlemen in elegant frocks enjoying the latest in entertainment.

To this day Palace Theatre attracts the same kind of ladies and gentlemen, although the frocks have changed dramatically since the 19th c. So did the entertainment. The theatre is a regular venue for West End shows, ballets, and rock operas.

 

Qype: Lancaster House in Manchester

Manchester

Lancaster House is an impressive multistory edifice that occupies the corner of Whitworth St and Princess St. The intricately structured tower is a fine piece of design. Lancaster House dates back to the early 20th c. when it was a warehouse. Since then it was converted into apartments, not unlike many other commercial buildings in Manchester. The ground floor is occupied by O’Sheas Irish pub, and there are a few Eastern eateries around, from Shang Hai to the Grand Buffet. Some beautiful views open on Lancastrian House from Canal Street, especially in summer.

 

Qype: Greggs the Bakers in Manchester

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The most distinguishing trait of this Greggs must be its location. Unlike many other Greggs shops in Manchester it has the bus stop just in front of its entrance. The lunch hour attracts long queues, and people have to crowd in that tiny space in the street, while the passers-by have to wriggle between those who are trying to buy some lunch. As a result, there regularly assembles a rather unattractive heap of people who are only trying to buy some buns and pies for lunch…

 

The End of the Line

This is a very personal post. The month of March appears to be rich in dramatic experiences.

I have just been told that Daniel Michael Kevin Jones (13 November, 1981 – 22 March, 2010) has died today at 12 noon in St James’s Hospital in Leeds. He was 28, he wanted to be a writer, and he was born with a liver condition that, sadly, could see him struggling through life. And he was my de jure husband.

We met online on 29th of August 2000. We were one of the first couples to have found each other via the Internet. A good proof for those who wonder if or not the web is a good place to find your other half. Neither of us was prepared for it, but we both embraced the change. A little over a year later – in November 2001 – we got married in Moscow. We separated in December 2006, a week after my birthday. In May 2008 I finally moved out of their house. He fell ill in late December 2009; he was taken in to Manchester Royal Infirmary in February 2010. I visited him twice there, and I even considered going to Leeds with him, even though he was no longer my husband. But certain things changed, including my financial circumstances, and I didn’t go. They were planning to give him the liver transplant, but I was told the operation never went through: he was too ill.

It was the first relationship proper for both of us, and it was always difficult to manage. We’d have fantastic times together, and then we’d have really hard, hard times. It wouldn’t be wrong to say that living with parents, first mine, then his, didn’t help things.

We owe a few important things to each other. I owe Daniel my British degree, living in another country, and all the experience I’ve gained that made me rethink certain things about how we approach life, people, goals, and relationships. He owes me the desire to be a writer, visiting new places, and the experience of breaking out of the rut. I’m not as strong as a bull when it comes to health. However, my parents always encouraged me to push the envelope. His family was much more cautious, and this would inevitably cause friction between us once we started living in his house. But when we met he did the impossible: he came to visit me in Moscow. He found a girl he’d fallen in love with, and he overturned every obstacle his parents or doctors tried to put in his place.

Truly, when we are in love, we do the impossible. Love doesn’t mean lust on this occasion, but rather this commitment and dedication to the object of your love (a person, a subject, a project, etc.) that sees you going for it with all ardour and vigour. In these ten years we undoubtedly have discovered a few things about each other that we didn’t like, but him going and getting me, against all odds, is likely to remain a benchmark of how much a man can do for a woman. Obviously, there are always other ways of showing love and appreciation, but one of the things I will always remember about Daniel is that first visit.

We separated after 5 years of trying. It was a hard work for both of us. I was too ambitious and, honestly, too different from him. Secretly, we both realised it quite early, but none wanted to admit that we wouldn’t be able to work around it. As for him, he turned out to not be as independent and go-getting, as it seemed at first. And this is how I learnt the lesson in the importance of your circle. There was a marked difference in Daniel who came to visit me in Moscow; Daniel whom I married and with whom I lived in my native city for over a year; and Daniel whom I found upon my arrival to England, after he’d spent 9 months living at home.

He changed in some ways in the years since we split. He regularly went out of his house to read and write; recently he’d grown a beard and had his hair down most of the time. We would meet occasionally, and the last time I saw him healthy and walking he was wearing a top hat. He had plans and dreams, and even though he was still too lenient to himself in going about them, it felt as though he was definitely getting there at last.

When I visited him in hospital in February, it hit me hard. I may not have had any feelings for him as a man any longer, but as a person who’d been in my life for nearly 10 years, he was dear to me. He looked dreadful, but I felt how much he feared. To think that his father died from ulcer nearly 4 years ago, in 2006, was terrible. Two days after that visit I was in the hospital again, seeing him going into a severe nervous breakdown, fighting all of us, not recognising anyone. But the most bizarre thing was that his mother wasn’t there. When I arrived, he was asking her to not talk to him. In the end, she took it really personally and left, saying to him: “It is because you’re like that with me that you’re in hospital”.

I was by his side all this time, but immediately as they gave him sedative and I had the chance to sit down and compose myself, I realised that this was the pivotal moment. In fact, my real self threw it upon me, and I had to accept. I realised that, as far as his mother was concerned, I was his wife; in fact, I wasn’t. I realised that there and then, by his bedside, I had to make a choice between my past and my future. The truth was that my present was ridden with problems, mostly financial, and by committing myself to the past I was to make them even more severe. And I would get even further away from the future.

I know it sounds almost heartless. It isn’t. It is not heartless to accept the fact that you are following your heart when you have every reason not to, while at the same time those who must be much more committed and passionate turn their backs on you and the person you care for. When I explained to my ex-mother-in-law that his son and I weren’t together any more, and that was the reason why I didn’t want Leeds hospital to approach me as the first contact, she asked: “So, you don’t love him anymore?” “I do”, I said, “but as person who did a lot to me, as my dear friend, not as my husband”.

I’m not sure she understood…

Tunick Is Looking for Naked Matchstalk Men… and Women

We tend to make much ado about nudity these days. Is it acceptable or not? If yes, to what extent and under which circumstances? The obvious reason for all these questions is that today nudity is inseparable from sex. We certainly fail to perceive the naked human body in the same way as the ancient Greeks or Romans did. Not many of us can appreciate the beauty of the naked body with detachment, i.e. without physically grabbing it. As Kenneth Clark put it correctly in his book Nudity in Art, in antique culture nakedness was received on a philosophical level that made it possible for the Olympic athletes to compete with no clothes on. And maybe today’s athlete could also bare it all with no reservations – but would it be accepted by the public?

Spencer Tunick challenges the public with exactly the same question. His installations featuring the naked volunteers have been commissioned worldwide, from Buenos Aires to Vienna. This year, however, Tunick is setting the new record: he will be creating his first multisite installation across Manchester and Salford, and he will be doing so in response to the famous Salford artist, LS Lowry. Lowry was known for painting “matchstalk men and matchstalk cats and dogs“, and it is interesting to see how Tunick is going to use and adapt this metaphor.

The project entitled Everyday People will see volunteers taken by heated buses to various locations where the expert Tunick will orchestrate them into artistic shapes. Given the weather that these two sunny cities are famous for, it may take more from a volunteer than just the courage to strip naked. But those who do brave it all will forever enter the book of 21st century art – and the history of Manchester and Salford. As characteristic of his work, Tunick will take photographs and film the human compositions, and the completed work will be on display at The Lowry between 12 June and 26 September this year.

To make this project happen, Tunick and The Lowry need YOU. You can register your details on the website, and filming will take place over two days, 1 and 2 May. As you may remember from my last year’s post, 1 of May is celebrated in some countries as the Labour Day. It looks like this year it will be the Art’s Labour Day, thanks to the New York-based artist.


Illustrations:

Photo is the courtesy of Spencer Tunick’s official website.
LS Lowry, A Village Square.

Qype: The Sherlock Holmes in London

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As many past visitors correctly noted, the pub is nowhere near Baker Street – but it is close enough to the famous Charing Cross, Trafalgar Square, and a handful of London landmarks. The menu is a repertoire of names that owe their origin to Sherlokian stories, and judging by the food I had there it is a splendid adventure, you will certainly not be disappointed.

Better yet, for all Sherlock Holmes and Dr Watson fans worldwide, in the pub there is a room filled with the famous sleuth’s memorabilia. I was especially surprised to see a figure of Holmes with a hole in his head. To this day, I’ve no idea why they decided to place that particular mannequin in the pub.

The walls along the staircase are decorated with some of Conan-Doyle’s own drawings; in one of those, made shortly before his death, he depicted himself as a horse who carries an overloaded cart.

Last but not least, the Russian visitors will not be disappointed either: they will find a photograph and a letter presented to the pub by Igor Maslennikov, the director of the Russian TV series based on Conan-Doyle’s stories. The series, starring Vassily Livanov as Sherlock Holmes and Vitaly Solomin as Dr Watson, has wowed the audiences in Russia and in the West since its release in 1970s-early 1980s.

The pub is tucked away in a side walk off Charing Cross, and is a short walk away from taxi rank or Bond Street tube station.

 

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