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Moscow: The Windows of Antiques Shops in Moscow


I know that you, like me, love going into antique shops. There are many antiques and collectables shops in England, and the same is true for Russia, Moscow in particular. My walk in the city centre last week brought me to several of such shops, although I never went inside any of them. When I do go in, I often leave with a pack of old postcards. On the back there are usually letters, and while I don’t try to investigate who those people were, I always find a great pleasure in imagining how they could be living, what relationships they maintained, etc.

This time, however, the shopwindows of those antiques shops brought quite a few remarkable examples. In some of them you will see an old paper knife, a mirror, and a collection of China dolls, including the characters from The Dead Souls by Nikolai Gogol. In others there will be amazing gilded dishes, vases, and clocks, complete with a bottle of the Red Label whiskey.

The characters from The Dead Souls by Nikolai Gogol

St Basil Cathedral at Dusk

The Cathedral of the Protection of Most Holy Theotokos on the Moat, popularly known as Saint Basil’s Cathedral (Russian: Собор Василия Блаженного), is a Russian Orthodox church erected on the Red Square in Moscow in 1555–1561. Built on the order of Ivan IV of Russia to commemorate the capture of Kazan and Astrakhan, it marks the geometric center of the city and the hub of its growth since the 14th century. It was the tallest building in Moscow until the completion of the Ivan the Great Bell Tower in 1600.

St Basil’s at night

The picture was taken during my stroll from Maroseika via Ilyinka up Tverskaya Street and down the Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya Street towards the Krasnaya Presnya on Friday. The entire walk took about 1.5-2 hours. I am actually grateful to my friend who encouraged me to find the angle for the photo because the blue stripes on the dome were complementing the blue evening sky.

St Basil’s from the Moskva River

The restoration works cost $14mln. The cathedral remains the federal property of the State and a branch of the State Historical Museum, although the religious ceremonies also take place inside.

More posts:

St Basil’s Cathedral Marks 450th Anniversary (Los Cuadernos de Julia)

Moscow Summer: St Basil’s Cathedral from the Moskva River (Los Cuadernos de Julia)

Moscow’s St Basil’s Cathedral Is 450 (NowPublic)

Moscow: Taxi for Animals

This is something I have not seen in all my time in Britain, although I suspect that someone does do a similar kind of business, although on a less public scale. In Moscow, you can order a special taxi to transfer your four-legged friend, with or without you by their side. The drivers are experienced in animal transportation and have completed a special canine handling course, to better assist the dog and its owner. You can also use the service to be taken to or from the airport, as well as to deliver the goods from the vet clinic.

The prices are rather “democratic”, so to say: to go from A to B within Moscow city, regardless of time in transfer, will cost the dog owner 1200RUB, approx. 30EUR. If the driver has to wait for you, the price will increase to 1500RUB for transportation, plus 250RUB for every hour of waiting, i.e. 1750RUB, or 43.5EUR.

The taxis have a climate control system inside, which is an indispensable feature to use in the notorious Moscow traffic jams. In this photo the taxi stands in the line of cars in Sretenka Street. After every journey the taxi is disinfected, to ensure the high level of service for subsequent passengers.

The former unimate I met in the evening of the same day as I took this photo told me it’s good for people to live in Moscow, if they have money. I don’t know about people, but for some dogs in Moscow dog’s life is certainly a great fun.

Moscow: University of Corporate Management

This post is to merely point out to a striking, if ironic and kind of poignant, coincidence in location. By this point today I have accidentally met my old University friend, and we were walking together. Since he has more experience than me at working at different institutions and hence at different buildings, he kindly explained that the University’s teachers are likely to be based on the 2nd floor “because this is where the air conditioners are”. I suppose he is right, which means that students are suffocating in the rooms on the top floors. That’s not the most important point.

University of Corporate Management in Ilyinka Street, Moscow

The most important point is that on the ground floor there is a Coffee House cafe on the left and the Slivovitsa beer restaurant on the right. Considering that they teach Corporate Management at the University, one may safely assume that the Russian students will learn from day one how and where to best manage corporate affairs. Of course, either over a cup of coffee, or over a pint.

Strictly speaking, this is how these affairs seem to be managed elsewhere, too.

Moscow: My Piece of Britain in Russia

Moscow is a fantastic place: there are many things that they haven’t got in Britain, and then there are things that they do have. Just like you may never leave Manchester because you have Piccadilly, Pall Mall, and Albert Square there, so you may not need to go to Britain or New York because there are Starbucks’, Subways, and Costa Coffee cafes.

My favourite Costa in Manchester was actually situated in Bolton; my Moscow’s favourite Costa is sitting in Maroseika Street, next door to McDonalds and with a few other coffee houses across the road. It is absolutely one of “my” places in my native city. I nearly went into another Costa Coffee in Kuznetsky Most street, but the atmosphere was nowhere near the one I enjoy at the cafe in Maroseika. Having said that, Maroseika is generally one of my favourite streets in town, so we are talking of the location and the place complementing one another. Today I was lucky enough to find myself a seat by the window. I reviewed my plans for this year, as well as some of my work, while drinking an Americano with a slice of lip-smacking chocolate cake. In the end, I left a comment in English in their guestbook, telling the guys how good they are.

I will surely be going back to England… but not for Costa Coffee, it seems.

Moscow Churches: Life-Giving Trinity in Sretenka Street

A rather European church yard
Bell Tower (1788)

I had a long walk today in the centre of Moscow, and this time I will be sharing some of the impressions straight away. The first is a visit to the church of Life-Giving Trinity in Sretenka Street. The closest underground station is Sukharevskaya. The history of the church is quoted from the Russian Churches website, but the photos in the post are mine.

The iconostasis and a candelabra
The frescoes and icons

The church was built in 1651-61 (according to other sources – in 1657-71) in the Streletskaya sloboda (settlement of riflemen) on the monetary funds of V. Pushechnikov’s regiment (it was consecrated in 1661) along with the one-sided refectory having a side-chapel of the Protection of the Holy Mary (it was consecrated in 1680). The church was founded by riflemen (Streltsy) in commemoration of the Astrakhan crusade against S. Razin. Its predecessor was a wooden church known since 1635. The name “V listakh” originated from the printers who were living there in the 17th – 18th centuries and who made and sold popular cheap pictures – lists near the church.

The regiment distinguished itself in crusades, including the Chigirin crusade (1677—78), and it was honoured with tsar’s rich contribution into the church that became the memorial of military honour.

Entrance to the church
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In 1689 the cupola of the church cracked in fire and Peter the Great made a contribution to restore it, it was money for capture of the “rebel Fedka Shcheglovitov”. In 1699 the church was given a name Ruzhnaya for distinguished service of riflemen (Streltsy). In 1704 by the decree of Peter the Great the church was awarded a status of the Admiralty and parish church of the Sukharevskaya tower. It was renovated in 1878.

It is a cross-building, four-column, cubical church having five solid helmet-shaped lantern domes. The side portals are decorated with pattern brick.

The church was closed in 1931 as the priest was arrested. In the 1930-ies its dome was destroyed, in 1957 the bell tower was demolished. Since the 1980-ies it was under restoration.

Decor of the tower
Decor of the side door.

In 1990 the church was returned to the Russian Orthodox Church. It was consecrated in 1991. 

P.S. The decor of the side door may well remind the students of European architecture of the Romanesque cathedrals. 

Moscow Churches: St Sophia At Dusk

The church of St Sophia the Holy Wisdom of God was first built around 1480 by the migrants from Novgorod the Great. The choice of the saint commemorated the famous cathedral of St Sophia in Novgorod. The present church that you can see in the photos is tucked between the Detsky Mir (Children’s World), a celebrated kids megastore, and the notorious KGB. Considering that Sophia means “wisdom” in Greek, to have such a church sitting behind the building of the Russian secret service is no small territorial coincidence for a big city. The present building of the church dates back to 1650. The bell tower was built in 1816.

Je Suis Marx, Pas Marxiste!!!

I had a wonderful lecturer in Philosophy in my first two years at the University. We only ever had seminars with him, partly I guess because he was very old. He celebrated his birthday on November 7, and in 1997, when we were in our first year, he turned 90. Ours and another group in his seminar had a thought and decided to present him a handwatch. We chipped in, bought it, and on the day, after the seminar, gave it to him. He kindly took it, looked at it, and said: “Ah, a watch? I have too many, anyway“.

That day it was snowing hard, so straight after that seminar I decided to catch a bus to the tube. When I went through the University gate, the bus was approaching the stop, so I had to run. I barely made it, got on the bus, and stood by the door. Next thing I was watching my 90-year-old philosopher running for the next bus that already stood at the stop!

The lecturer came from a noble family; he liked telling us about the occasion when he and his brother were walking, accompanied by their bonne, and met the Emperor Nikolai II. And in 1956 when he was in Hungary his driver refused to give him a lift somewhere, thus saving the philosopher from the wrath of Revolution.

Moscow23 I wanted to show you a few photos of Karl Marx’s monuments. In spite of the change of regime, some of his statues survive to this day. The one of the right actually stands right opposite the Bolshoi Theatre. Here Marx is a passionate prophet appealing to the proletarians of the world to unite. Another photo was taken by another user in the Russian city of Tver. The story has it that some parents still take their kids to this terrifying, severe philosopher. The facial expression of the Tver Marx goes well with the inscription: “Let the ruling classes tremble at a Communist revolution. The proletarians have nothing to lose but their chains“.

The reason I recalled my Philosophy lecturer is that he used to tell us that Marx said something along the lines: “I am Marx, not a Marxist!” (Je suis Marx, pas Marxiste). The lecturer always said this phrase in French. It is a great way to illustrate the conundrum in which some celebrated people find themselves. They are still “themselves”, but as far as the crowd is concerned, they are associated with their teaching.

Many years after Marx, it was the French historian Fernand Braudel who stressed the same point. When the Soviet scholars criticised him for “deserting” Marxism, he replied: “I criticise Marxism in order to remain a Marxist“. Indeed, as with just about any teaching, there is a set of core ideas, which may mutate into an ideology. And one has occasionally to step back and to regain the perspective, precisely in order not to fall into an even bigger fallacy of assuming that a new teaching is necessary.

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