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Moscow’s Saint Basil’s Cathedral Is 450

Moscow's Saint Basil's Cathedral Is 450
St Basil Cathedral, Moscow, Russia

Moscow’s Saint Basil’s Cathedral Is 450

 

 

One of the iconic Russian monument, the Cathedral of the Intercession of the Virgin by the Moat, popularly known as St. Basil’s Cathedral, is celebrating its 450th anniversary in 2011.

The unique church was commissioned by Tsar Ivan the Terrible to commemorate the victory over Kazan in 1552. The building took some 9 years, and in 1561 the church was solemnly opened. The 450-years old Cathedral was erected on the place of the Trinity Cathedral where Moscow’s “holy fool”, Vassily, had been buried.

The names of the master masons who worked on the construction were only discovered in the state documents in the 19th c. – Barma and Postnik Yakovlev. The popular legend has it that the architects were blinded by Ivan’s order for fear that they would later design something that could surpass the beauty of the Cathedral. Although it is assumed to be untrue, the legend clearly refers to the well-known cruelty of the Russian Tsar.

In its 450 years, the Cathedral saw mutinies, protests, and military parades in the Red Square. The monument to the Prince Pozharsky and Dmitry Minin, the heroes of the Russian war against the Polish Intervention of the 17th c., marks the spot in front of the Cathedral. In a short distance is another landmark – Lobnoye Mesto where the documents were read to the crowd. In 1966, 7 Soviet protesters against the invasion of Czech Republic gathered there with boards for a short peaceful demonstration. Joan Baez subsequently commemorated one of the participants, Natalia Gorbanevskaya, in the eponymous song. The Cathedral stands close to the famous Spasskaya Tower (a kind of Russian Big Ben, thanks to its clock) and the no-less-famous GUM – the building packed with boutiques of luxury brands.

The Cathedral had known several renovations, the one in 1860s being the most considerable to date. Between mid-2000s and 2011 the cathedral was once again undergoing reconstruction that cost $14mln in state and sponsor funding.

In its long history, the Cathedral was at least twice under the threat of extinction. In the Soviet times, the Government had shortly considered its demolition, to “free” the space for military parades. The architect Pyotr Baranovsky vehemently protested, thus saving the monument. Only recently, in July 2011, an unknown man threw a smoke bomb into the cathedral. The building did not suffer in the attack.

The recognisable unique and exquisite exterior design is fairly modern: it was only introduced in the second half of the 19th c. The original structure is likely to have been less complex and definitely white, not red, to match the then white Kremlin walls. One cannot fail to notice a similarity in design between St Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow and the Cathedral of Our Saviour on the Blood in St. Petersburg. The latter was built on the place where the Emperor Alexander II was assasinated in 1881. It clearly takes the inspiration from St Basil’s Cathedral, but one should not forget that the Moscow cathedral’s design had also undergone changes in the 19th c. One may remember the deep interest in folklore and medieval Russian art and culture that marked the most of Russia’s 19th c. Most likely, it was this interest that dictated the colouring and outside decor of both cathedrals.

Since 1928, St Basil’s has been a branch of the State Historical Museum. Although the services are held at the church on Sundays, some parts of the building are also available for exhibitions. Some 10 years ago, for instance, the Cathedral housed an exhibition of English medieval armour.

Being one of the most popular and best-known Russian landmarks, St Basil’s Cathedral is a must spot for posing for photos both for the Muscovites and tourists alike. Its 450th anniversary will be celebrated until October 14, the Russian Day of the Intercession of Our Lady. Celebrations include a memorial virtual tour of the cathedral and several programmes prepared especially by one of Russian TV channels.

 

Moscow Summer: St Basil’s Cathedral from the Moskva River

St Basil Cathedral seen from the Moskva River, Moscow, Russia

Moscow Summer 10, originally uploaded by loscuadernosdejulia.

I took the picture two weeks ago when I went on a Moskva River cruise. St. Basil’s Cathedral that is celebrating its 450th anniversary in 2011 and has already been a subject to an attack in July, was standing solemnly amidst the tourist buses and tourists themselves, eager to take a photo in front of one of the wonders of Russian medieval architecture.

The popular legend has it that Ivan the Terrible ordered the master masons who designed and built the cathedral to be blinded, so they could not produce anything similar or better than the cathedral. While the story is now generally held to be untrue, it stresses the importance this edifice has played in how Russian cultural heritage is perceived and estimated. Not even a French king, as far as we know, ever thought of killing or mutilating Leonardo, lest the great artist painted another masterpiece for another master. And yet in Russia, in the time of Michelangelo, another Titan of Renaissance, two architects were reportedly most cruelly denied the opportunity to practise their art and trade…

St Basil’s Cathedral Marks 450th Anniversary

One of Moscow’s celebrated monuments, The Cathedral of the Intercession of the Virgin by the Moat, otherwise known as St Basil’s Cathedral, marks its 450th anniversary today. The celebrations will be held until October 14, the Russian holiday of Intercession.

The cathedral was built by two Russian master-masons whose names were only discovered in the 19th c. The cathedral commemorated the victory over Kazan in 1552 and was finished by 1561. The legend states that Ivan had ordered the masons to be blinded, lest they created anything similarly beautiful.

The cathedral indeed stands on the site where St Basil (Vassily), the ‘holy fool’, was buried, and hence bears his name as an alternative. In front of the cathedral, as well, is a statue to the heroes of the Civil War against the Polish invaders of the 17th c. – Kuzma Minin and Dmitry Pozharsky.

Amazing as it may sound, the cathedral nearly perished during the Soviet times when its location interfered with Stalin’s plans for military parades. The architect Pyotr Baranovsky categorically stood up for this gem of Russian architecture and saved it.

Faith, Church, and Religion

I quite like the adverb “religiously”: it illustrates the practice that is not unknown to me. I used to religiously go to the library, to town, I watched films religiously, like, The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes, The Captain Grant’s Children, The Poirot series, The Life of Klim Samgin, etc. I religiously attended a few film festivals, a couple of film seasons (including the one on Pornography in Cinema), and one or two retrospectives, e.g. of Roman Polanski’s work. It may all have to do with “lay” activities, as opposed to something to do with the church, but I certainly can exercise a degree of religious fervour and even piety when it comes to a person or object that I cherish.

The same never applied to church. Even if my mother or grandmother had visited the church, they rarely told me and certainly never took me there. Even more certainly, they provided me with no “religious education”. Before I read the Bible, I have read a classical Soviet book “The Bible for the Believers and Non-believers” (Библия для верующих и неверующих), so I had a very good idea of all the logical incongruities of this great book. Further training at the University provided me with an insight into the Bible as an historical text, one of many, so it has always been a divine book in the same sense as may be applied to any inspired work of art and culture.

Curiously, I have always had more interest in “revisionist” stories of Christ. Jesus Christ Superstar the rock opera, Judas Iscariot story by the Russian writer Leonid Andreev (the link takes you to the Russian text), The Last Temptation of Christ by Nikos Kazantzakis, they all somehow seemed to tell a story that was “truer” than the one peddled by the “official” church propaganda. In addition, until I went to England I have always felt uncomfortable in the Russian Orthodox church: the pious seemed to be too pious, and I was more aloof and absolutely not compliant with the religious rites.

But at the same time, whenever I wrote something “anti-God” in the past, I never published it. It may sound mystical, but something has always stopped me. It is as if something outside of me knew that I was really barking up the wrong tree, and kindly wanted to save me from making a mistake.

It was in England that I began to photograph chapels, churches, and cathedrals, and that I started going inside and spending time there, and even taking photographs. The church was gradually changing from an alien and almost hostile environment into the space where solitude was encouraged, and where one could find peace. I came to see it as a meditation space, and what is the prayer if not a form of meditation? Experiencing the loss, as well as the gratitude for having sometimes unknown but ultimately benevolent force in my life, also made me step out of my comfort zone and start lighting the candles and ordering prayers for the health of my close people and friends.

And ultimately I came to understand that, while I may have had issues with the doctrinal side of things, as well as with the church’s attempt to encroach on just about every area of my life, I have not had real issues with the idea of God, or with the possibility that my prayers may come true. After all, the teachers of success tell us that we get what we wish for, that we attract that we focus on. ‘God’ is merely a word that signifies the force that has and has not the presence in people and things at the same time. I am not God, but I certainly carry within me the transcendental element, which source has to be God. And so do you.

I was asked once if I was an agnostic or an atheist, and I cannot call myself either. My faith is mystical at best, although I do describe myself as a philosopher in these matters. I like the Gothic idea of building and decorating the church as the extension of the divine grace and beauty; and I do agree with Erich Fromm’s explanation of the importance of Church as the projection of matriarchal ideas in the otherwise patriarchal religion that centres upon God the Father. Above all – and this is another indication of my mysticism in the matters of faith – out of all Bible books I have always loved The Song of Songs. Those who are interested in the subject may already know that the poetic imagery of this book has been widely used throughout the Middle Ages, and idea of the marriage of Church and Christ owes its origin to the story of Solomon and Shulamite, highly erotic and deeply intimate.

I guess the reason I love this part of the Bible is because this is what I cannot imagine the life without: the all-embracing Love that spreads from one’s own self to the beloved and to everything within one’s reach. I find it really sad that church and religion sometimes instruct how to love God but that they rarely teach to love people.

So, these days when I write about Moscow churches and take photographs outside and sometimes inside the religious space, I do so with two thoughts in mind. First, having seen how spiritual grace and beauty were translated in architecture, sculpture and decor of the church, I want to show how the same happens in Russia. After all, the Orthodox church is not altogether different from the rest of religious denominations. And secondly, I want to show how this space functions in creating the atmosphere for meditation. The church, either in Russia or elsewhere, needs to open up to the fact that it is first and foremost the house of God which is always the one, regardless whether we are in a Christian church, or a mosque, or a synagogue. This is the only way we will protect churches as relics of our human past, by re-establishing their cultural and spiritual value.

Moscow Churches: Unmercenary Healers Cosma and Damian

Church of Cosma and Damian
Embassy of Belarus
Maroseika, 12

The church of the Unmercenary Healers of Cosma and Damian stands on the corner of Maroseika St and Starosadsky Lane (Side-Street). Both streets are very close to my heart, as this was one of the routes to the State Historical Library in Starosadsky Lane where I went religiously between 1997 and 2003. Next door to the church is the building that used to house the Tax Police Service; nowadays there is located the Federal Drug Control Service. In the early 2000s, the street was shown on TV many times when the TV series “Maroseika, 12” was aired. And right opposite the church sits the opulent buildings that has for years been housing the Embassy of the Republic of Belarus. I secretly relish the thought of living there, if it ever becomes available.

The church was built on the site of a wooden one that dated back to 1625. The church-goers themselves collected the money, and the building was entrusted to the architect Matvei (Matthew) Kazakov. He worked on the site between 1793 and 1803. Among the famous attendants of the church were the poet-diplomat Fyodor Tyutchev and the writer Fyodor Dostoyevsky.

The church is built in the style of classicism. The chancel and the side-chapels of the same height are combined with the cube refectory and two-level bell tower. The buildings almost do not have decorative details except for two double-column porticos from the side of the street (from Russian Church). The church used to be famous for its miracle-working icon “The Healer of the Paralytic”.

The story of the church during the Soviet era is surely to startle the listener: it was used as a motorbike club, an archive, a storehouse, an administrative and educational institution, and the library. Nonetheless it survived, was given back to the Church in 1988, and since 1993 was open to the pious public.

I managed to make a photo of the interior of the church, showing the altar. As you may notice, inside the church is barely decorated, which does not seem to do with the Soviet expurgations. Simply, having been built in the early 19th c., it was not painted with any frescoes. Although the level of literacy had still left a lot to be desired, the church decor no longer played the part of delivering the message.

Inside the church of Cosma and Damian
The back of the church, seen from Starosadsky Lane

St Basil Cathedral at Dusk

The Cathedral of the Protection of Most Holy Theotokos on the Moat, popularly known as Saint Basil’s Cathedral (Russian: Собор Василия Блаженного), is a Russian Orthodox church erected on the Red Square in Moscow in 1555–1561. Built on the order of Ivan IV of Russia to commemorate the capture of Kazan and Astrakhan, it marks the geometric center of the city and the hub of its growth since the 14th century. It was the tallest building in Moscow until the completion of the Ivan the Great Bell Tower in 1600.

St Basil’s at night

The picture was taken during my stroll from Maroseika via Ilyinka up Tverskaya Street and down the Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya Street towards the Krasnaya Presnya on Friday. The entire walk took about 1.5-2 hours. I am actually grateful to my friend who encouraged me to find the angle for the photo because the blue stripes on the dome were complementing the blue evening sky.

St Basil’s from the Moskva River

The restoration works cost $14mln. The cathedral remains the federal property of the State and a branch of the State Historical Museum, although the religious ceremonies also take place inside.

More posts:

St Basil’s Cathedral Marks 450th Anniversary (Los Cuadernos de Julia)

Moscow Summer: St Basil’s Cathedral from the Moskva River (Los Cuadernos de Julia)

Moscow’s St Basil’s Cathedral Is 450 (NowPublic)

Moscow Churches: Life-Giving Trinity in Sretenka Street

A rather European church yard
Bell Tower (1788)

I had a long walk today in the centre of Moscow, and this time I will be sharing some of the impressions straight away. The first is a visit to the church of Life-Giving Trinity in Sretenka Street. The closest underground station is Sukharevskaya. The history of the church is quoted from the Russian Churches website, but the photos in the post are mine.

The iconostasis and a candelabra
The frescoes and icons

The church was built in 1651-61 (according to other sources – in 1657-71) in the Streletskaya sloboda (settlement of riflemen) on the monetary funds of V. Pushechnikov’s regiment (it was consecrated in 1661) along with the one-sided refectory having a side-chapel of the Protection of the Holy Mary (it was consecrated in 1680). The church was founded by riflemen (Streltsy) in commemoration of the Astrakhan crusade against S. Razin. Its predecessor was a wooden church known since 1635. The name “V listakh” originated from the printers who were living there in the 17th – 18th centuries and who made and sold popular cheap pictures – lists near the church.

The regiment distinguished itself in crusades, including the Chigirin crusade (1677—78), and it was honoured with tsar’s rich contribution into the church that became the memorial of military honour.

Entrance to the church
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In 1689 the cupola of the church cracked in fire and Peter the Great made a contribution to restore it, it was money for capture of the “rebel Fedka Shcheglovitov”. In 1699 the church was given a name Ruzhnaya for distinguished service of riflemen (Streltsy). In 1704 by the decree of Peter the Great the church was awarded a status of the Admiralty and parish church of the Sukharevskaya tower. It was renovated in 1878.

It is a cross-building, four-column, cubical church having five solid helmet-shaped lantern domes. The side portals are decorated with pattern brick.

The church was closed in 1931 as the priest was arrested. In the 1930-ies its dome was destroyed, in 1957 the bell tower was demolished. Since the 1980-ies it was under restoration.

Decor of the tower
Decor of the side door.

In 1990 the church was returned to the Russian Orthodox Church. It was consecrated in 1991. 

P.S. The decor of the side door may well remind the students of European architecture of the Romanesque cathedrals. 

Moscow Churches: St Sophia At Dusk

The church of St Sophia the Holy Wisdom of God was first built around 1480 by the migrants from Novgorod the Great. The choice of the saint commemorated the famous cathedral of St Sophia in Novgorod. The present church that you can see in the photos is tucked between the Detsky Mir (Children’s World), a celebrated kids megastore, and the notorious KGB. Considering that Sophia means “wisdom” in Greek, to have such a church sitting behind the building of the Russian secret service is no small territorial coincidence for a big city. The present building of the church dates back to 1650. The bell tower was built in 1816.

Moscow: The Kremlin and the Moscow Evening Traffic

You have probably heard about Moscow’s atrocious traffic jams. I have to visit my house 30 mins earlier because I must allow for the fact that it may take me 10-20 mins longer to get from my house to the closest tube by bus. In my district we don’t suffer from a lack of buses. In fact, after 7 years there are two or three extra buses connecting my district with the metro stations and/or other districts. But we do suffer from the abundance of cars, lorries, and trucks, and when they organise a perfect traffic jam you cannot help but learn the lesson… and take extra time to get to where you need to go.

The embankment in the photo was photographed shortly before 9pm on Wednesday and doesn’t look too crowded, but I can promise you a photo in the broad daylight that will show exactly how dense the traffic can be here.

And you can also see the Kremlin wall, the Presidential Palace, the Archangel Cathedral, and the Ivan the Great Bell Tower and Belfry.

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