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How to Lose a Pancake (And Remember Marcel Proust)

RecipeMama

In a tiny kitchen in our flat my mother and I have just lost a small pancake, or a pikelet.

My mother was turning over the pikelets in the frying pan when this little fellow slipped off a spatula and disappeared without a trace.

I doubt we shall ever find it.

I also doubt that our cats have eaten it because at the moment of its falling down they were engorging on their own food.

I share this with you because this is my most bizarre cooking experience to date. It also prompted me to think of various names to our rescuing efforts:

A Pancake Quest.

Du côté de chez crêpe (as in Proust’s Du côté de chez Swann), or A Pancake’s Way.

A Pancake Lost.

A Missing Pancake.

A Pancake Disappeared.

Disappearing Pancakes. 

Stray Pancakes. 

A la recherche des crêpes perdues, or Rememberance of Pancakes Past


To tell you the truth, I find rather inexplicable this perfect match of pancakes with the title of Marcel Proust’s seminal novel, or its parts. Of course, should we find our pikelet, A Pancake Lost would become A Pancake Regained in a homage to John Milton, though, as I said, I doubt this will be the case. 

This reminded me of an exercise Paul McKenna recommends doing to solve the issues people have with handling money without any negative or excessive feelings. You jot down everything you’ve ever heard or thought about money (or love, or anything else), then you substitute it with the word ‘shovel’ and see, if  statements still ring true. Or, in our exercise we shall substitute the words “money” and “love” for “pancake”.


Let’s try? 

The love of pancakes is the root of all evil. 

Pancakes don’t grow on trees. 

You have to work hard to have pancakes. 

I feel guilty because I have more pancakes than my parents ever did. 

Money causes pancakes. 

Money is pancakes. 

If I were really rich, I would be a pancake. 

I don’t believe in pancakes. 

Pancakes never last. 

Pancakes always cause you pain. 

Pancake is a bitch. 

I could never do a pancake again. 

I’m not worth a pancake.

Quotes: Su Tung-Po on Vision

Vision surges in front of you. You must seize this vision with the brush, because it can disappear suddenly, as the hare when the hunter approaches. 

Su Dongpo (Su Shi), a Chinese poet.

The popularity of this fine Chinese poet has not only survived the centuries, but spread well outside the art of writing, onto the art of cooking. The famous Dongpo’s Pork dish owes its name to Su Shi’s exile when, according to a legend, he took to play a game of chess with his friend, while cooking this red-braised pork in Chinese fermented wine.

Clearly, it is not just in France or Italy that cooking is l’art de vivre… 

How I Didn’t Recognise Parma Ham

Do you remember this passage in Lewis Carroll’s Through the Looking Glass, chapter IX ‘Queen Alice’?

Sir John Tenniel,
A Leg of Mutton
At last the Red Queen began. “You’ve missed the soup and fish”, she said. “Put on the joint!” And the waiters set a leg of mutton in front of Alice, who looked at it rather anxiously, as she had never had to carve a joint before. 
“You look a little shy: let me introduce you to that leg of mutton”, said the Red Queen. “Alice – Mutton: Mutton – Alice”. The leg of mutton got up in the dish and made a little bow to Alice: and Alice returned the bow, not knowing whether to be frightened or amused. 
“May I give you a slice?” she said, taking up the knife and fork, and looking from one Queen to the other. 
“Certainly not”, the Red Queen said, very decidedly: “it isn’t etiquette to cut any one you’ve been introduced to. Remove the joint!”

Believe it or not, I recently re-enacted the scene almost entirely…

In early December I went to Liverpool and on my way back to the station after 9pm I had to walk past San Carlo restaurant in Castle Street, described as “the best Italian restaurant outside London” by A. A. Gill of The Sunday Times. I had to stop by their window that offered a generous look at their stupendous bar. I’d never been to San Carlo, and I was really impressed with a variety of bottles of all sizes…

…including the one that was beige and looked like a wine vessel made of animal skin. Due to its guitar shape, it stood on its side, supported by a wooden base, with a piece of cord around its neck.

I was amused, for never before did I see such bottle. Intrepid as I am on such occasions, I walked into the restaurant where I was instantly welcomed by un Italiano vero: a gentleman with a small beard, his black hair streaming down to his shoulders.

He wanted to invite me in, but I explained that I was impressed by the bottle I saw in the window. “Oh yes, we have many bottles“, he nodded with a smile. “Which one was it?

Oh, it was beige, and it stood on its side…“, I began.

I wanted to show it, and as I turned I noticed exactly the similar bottle standing by the door on the counter. Next to it there were eggs on a heap of flour and a basket with fresh paninis.

That’s the bottle!” I exclaimed.

This is not the bottle“, the gentleman replied. “It is Parma ham“.

Credits:

The images for this post are taken from Rolf Hicker‘s website and from Cartoon Stock. Rolf is a professional photographer; and over at Cartoon Stock you can find a gallery of illustrations to Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland and Through the Looking Glass by the renowned illustrator, Sir John Tenniel. And if you feel like diving into Carroll’s imaginary world, go to Project Gutenberg for Through the Looking Glass’s text, or to LibriVox for Through the Looking Glass as an audiobook.

Visit Manchester and Sweet Mandarin

More and more people are visiting Manchester these days, and admittedly there are more and more reasons to do so. FutureEverything (festival-formerly-known-as-Futuresonic), Manchester International Festival and Manchester Literature Festival, Queer Up North, you name it. This is not to mention the beloved Manchester United and the growing MediaCityUK in Salford Quays.

To help you glide effortlessly through the gamut of events, Visit Manchester maintains a very useful site that is now accompanied by a blog and a Facebook page. The work of a prodigious Mancunian all-rounder, Martin Bryant, both blog and FB page will keep you well updated about what’s going on in our sunny city that occasionally boasts generous spells of rain.

When you visit Manchester, do pay a visit to Norther Quarter. The video below produced by Martin features Peter O’Grady, one of Manchester’s official tour guides, who in the matter of 5 minutes will tell you a lot of interesting facts about this bohemian and very characteristic part of Manchester. When you are travelling to Manchester, you can also download an audio guide produced by Phil Nash at Walk Talk Tours.

And when you have seen everything Peter and Phil told you about and got sufficiently hungry, go to Sweet Mandarin – the little ‘Chinese dragon’ that has just been named the best Chinese restaurant in the UK by Gordon Ramsay (follow the link to read about the tough battle against Edinburgh-based Chop-Chop). Set away from the maddening hustle and bustle of Chinatown (and Yang Sing restaurant), Sweet Mandarin has long been one of the most innovative eateries in the UK, pioneering the use of Twitter, blog, and Flickr, to draw attention to the place. Family run, the restaurant is the place for regular get-togethers of Mancunian Twitterati and Flickr photographers, and the homebase of a cookery school. In short, if you ever wondered how to cook something with Social Media, Sweet Mandarin can teach you many a lesson.

I’ve eaten at Sweet Mandarin during Futuresonic 2009, it was one of the places that offered discounts to delegates. I had the pleasure of trying their signature Claypot Chicken dish… that was praised by Ramsay and his team. If my memory is correct, the dish is cooked after a family recipe, and it is delicious! (Should I have said “del.icio.us”, to keep up with the SocMed tone?).

Above all, the restaurant staff is really friendly, attentive, and I am personally grateful for some advice they’ve given me. If or when you are visiting Manchester, do visit Sweet Mandarin. And in the meantime, if you are on Twitter, send them your greetings.  Congratulations on the deserved win!

Sweet Mandarin Interior

(I took the photo during one the Twitterati meet-ups in 2009).

Gammon in Orange, Ginger, and Honey

Now, this post is all about the art of cuisine. In the end, nations like the French or Italians, renowned for their artistic achievements, are also famous for their cuisine. This suggests a necessary link between food and art. Additionally, this year has been the first in my time in England when I could cook whatever I wanted and experiment without anything holding me back. As I was celebrating Christmas on my own, I therefore decided not to cook any traditional Christmas roasts, but to opt for something different. I cooked borsch, and then, practically on the spur of the moment, I decided to cook gammon in orange, ginger and honey (I was going to roast it at first). According to the original recipe, I needed to marinate gammon in lemon and garlic, but I didn’t have lemons at hand; I used an orange instead. And at a later stage of cooking I needed to add cognac; I used a mix of red wine and vodka. I also added a bit of red wine vinegar to the marinade. And although I am the only one to certify, I can assure you: this gammon is absolutely delicious!

What I used :

– a whole piece of unsmoked gammon (750 g)
– 6 garlic teeth
– 1 tea spoon of red wine vinegar
– 1 orange
– 2 red hot chilli peppers
– 2 table spoons of honey
– 2 table spoons of finely grated ginger
– 50 ml of red wine and 50 ml of vodka (or 100 ml of cognac)
– olive or other vegetable oil for frying (actually, I mixed olive and sesame seed oils)

How I cooked it:

1. I cut gammon in four pieces, put them in a hermeutic bowl, squeezed 1 orange, added finely cut 6 pieces of garlic, 1 tea spoon of vinegar, and put the covered bowl into a fridge for 45 mins, to marinate.
2. In the meantime, I grated ginger, cut 2 red chillies, and mixed them with 2 table spoons of honey and the red wine&vodka blend.
3. After 45 mins of marinating, I took gammon out and fried it in the mix of olive and sesame seed oils until gold.
4. Shortly before the gammon was ready, I heated up the sauce in a pan and added the hot blend to a frying pan with gammon.
5. I preheated the oven to 180C, covered the pan with foil, and put in the oven to cook for another 40 mins.

To accompany this gammon, I fried potatoes and carrots (cut in cubes). I also made a salad (1/2 of fresh cucumber, 4 gherkins, 1/2 can of sweetcorn, 3 reddishes, a few black olives, mixed together with mayonnaise), and there was apple sauce and some sweet pickle. But you can garnish the meat with mash or boiled vegetables, or just some green salad.

I hope you let me know if you tried this… Please do.

P.S. Ideally, you’d have a frying pan with the lid and a detached handle. But you can follow in my footsteps, or put gammon in a backing tray.

P.P.S. Speaking of Italians – my Italian friend in Manchester has finally fallen victim to my paeans to blogging, and started his own blog – Saffron Chicken and Unwritten Novels. So far it has only got one recipe to go with, but I heard Marco is going to share more with us. I’m sure this will be one of his New Year resolutions, especially now that you’ve heard of him. 🙂

 

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